The Hungarian capital is an impressive city with many remarkable points of interest. In fact, the range and density of uniquely impressive buildings make Budapest one of the most visually spectacular cities for my money.
The two historic parts of Buda and Pest – separated by the Danube and merging into one city only 150 years ago – are fairly distinct in appearance. You almost get to explore two cities in one.
Several bridges connect the two sides of the river, and the centermost one – the Chain Bridge ★ – is one of the signature sights of Budapest. The Liberty Bridge, Elisabeth Bridge, or Margaret Bridge are also worth walking over from side to side.
Buda enjoys a commanding location on the west bank of the river, with several dramatically positioned edifices that face the river being among the most eye-catching monuments in Budapest.
The Royal Palace takes the top billing for its positioning and monumental appearance. Its grounds must be more impressive when the fountains are operating (which only happens in the summer). There are no royal apartments to tour inside the palace; instead, the space is given to a couple of museums. The Hungarian National Gallery is about post-18th-century art, with plenty of Hungarian works, and a small representation of major Impressionists. The Budapest History Museum offers a varied collection ranging from archaeological finds to recent history; its main draw is St Stephen’s Hall (which can technically be visited separately), a medium-sized and comparatively opulent royal ceremonies chamber.
Mátyás Church ★ (formally known as the Church of Our Lady of Buda Castle) is the jewel of Buda, dazzling with its brilliantly colored tiled roof. The interior is no less colorful, with vivid stained-glass windows, painted walls and pillars, and other rich decorations. Access to upper-level terraces adds perspective; there is also a treasury. The acoustics of the church make it a regular location for choir singing, often in the middle of the day.
In front of the church is the Fisherman’s Bastion ★, one of the most Instagrammable attractions in Budapest. It is a good vantage point for views over Buda riverside and toward Pest. You can freely mingle with the crowds on the lower level or pay a fee to go to the upper level for slightly better views. Given that there are many free-to-enter lookouts all over the Castle District and away from it, even the comparatively small fee for the upper terrace of the bastion may not be worth it.
When you are walking the pretty streets of the Castle District, you may decide to stop at the Labyrinth. It is a series of caves – not a true labyrinth, as you cannot get lost, – dimly lit and sparsely decorated with statues, wall paintings, and curiosities. No more than mildly interesting for most, but the younger visitors may be fairly enchanted.
Another small diversion is Santa Magdalena Tower – reasonable views through open windows of the upper level, and the history of the parish explained on one of the landings.
You may decide to ascend to Castle Hill via Buda Funicular – it is a pretty short ride that is quite overpriced, can include a long wait to get on, and does not really offer different perspectives form the ones you can find elsewhere. The walkways up the hill are not that taxing even for the least athletic.
On the lower levels underneath Buda Castle close to the river, picturesque streets and minor points of interest – e.g., Varkert Bazaar – afford pleasant wandering around.
Gellért Hill, southward of the Castle, is home to the Citadel and several outstanding monuments, each with superb perspectives toward the city. Gellért Hill Cave Church is an unusual sight, built into a network of caves near the foot of the hill; there is also a remarkable set of carved wooden furniture on display in a room adjacent to the caves.
Central Pest was built with an expressed notion of rivaling Vienna with its wide boulevards and impressive squares. It is a veritable treasure trove of 19th-century architecture, with many “neo-” styles common to that era represented throughout the town quite well. If you have the stamina and the desire, walk the entire length of Andrássy Avenue, and you will encounter architectural masterpieces and delights practically every step of the way. Kossuth Square, Roosevelt Square, and especially Liberty Square are all surrounded by magnificent buildings.
The Parliament is undoubtedly on par with the Royal Palace as one of the most eye-catching sights in all of Budapest. I haven’t gone for the interior tour on my visits to the city, but the building reputedly boasts grand chambers befitting the exterior grandiosity.
Not far from the Parliament building at the edge of the river is the Shoes on the Danube Bank monument, a memorial to Hungarian Jews executed on the banks of the Danube in 1944-45, one of the simplest and most evocative Holocaust remembrances anywhere in the world.
St Stephen’s Basilica was only completed in the early 20th century and, subsequently, lacks the atmosphere of an “old” church. But its interior is quite resplendent in red marble, and the dome mosaics are absolutely splendid. You can also get to the viewing gallery under the dome (most of the way up and down is by an elevator), although the rooftop panorama falls short of truly breathtaking.
Built to emulate Vienna’s Opera, the State Opera House is another remarkable architectural gem, with an interior of opulence and grandeur. Guided tours are offered in several languages a few times daily, but the simplest way to see it is to buy the cheapest tickets to a performance. Somewhat inexplicably, there are seats in upper-level boxes that have no view of the stage, and they can be bought for a nominal amount. Get in half an hour before the performance, walk around the building, check out the magnificent performance hall, and then leave if you are so inclined. Or stay for an auditory, if not visual, enjoyment. (We had some luck on one occasion in that our kids were able to move into seats with good views, so we stayed for all three acts of The Swan Lake.)
There are several interesting Secessionist – the term used for the Austro-centric Art Nouveau movement – buildings in Central Pest. Among the most well-known is the Post Office Savings Bank, with its elaborate roof; it is home to a private institution, so despite being on the tentative list for World Heritage recognition it cannot be entered. Gresham Palace, currently a Four Seasons hotel, is accessible; step in to enjoy its curvilinear forms and organic motifs, with wrought-iron gates and fancy mosaics.
Several churches in the city besides the two already mentioned merit attention, both in Buda and Pest. For instance, the Inner City Parish Church, which dates from the 14th century, has interesting remnants of it being used as a mosque during Turkish rule. Keep in mind that churches in Hungary are frequently closed in between services, so you may not be able to see inside every one you come across.
Dohany Street Synagogue is a gorgeous attempt to build a synagogue in the form of a Christian church, replete with two pulpits and an organ. Guided lectures/tours are offered in several languages once inside. In addition to the main synagogue, there is a smaller and much simpler Heroes’ Synagogue, a lovely garden with the weeping willow monument, and a well-appointed Hungarian Jewish Museum and Archives worth perusing.
Rumbach Street Synagogue is circular-based and pretty in a recently-restored fashion, but a music-event setup where the bimah was supposed to be diminished the impression when I visited. Lovely decorations nonetheless, and extensive museum expositions on multiple upper levels.
There is at least one other synagogue that could be worth visiting, the Orthodox Synagogue on Kazinczy Street.
Otherwise, the Jewish Quarter of Budapest is full of fine buildings along its narrow streets, but only marginally “Jewish” nowadays, with a Kosher establishment here or there. Throughout the area, wall murals combine into the prime cluster of street art in town. Gozsdu Court is a restaurant lane that is fun to walk through even if you don’t sit down for a meal. Next to it, through one of the bars in the area, you can access the backyard with a remaining section of a ghetto wall.
The concept of “ruin bars” is best manifested in the Jewish Quarter area. The most famous of all is Szimpla Kert (“Simple Garden”); hidden behind a crumbling façade, the multi-space and -level establishment is covered in graffiti and fancifully decorated with old furniture and household objects from mid-20th-century. Atmospheric in a unique way (the drinks are obviously a bit overpriced).
The covered Central Market Hall is delightful in a way only a market could be. Its aisles are lined with stalls that sell various delicacies, spices, sweets, and produce. A feast for eyes and senses! The upper level is given to souvenir stalls, arts and crafts, clothing and accessories sellers, and food vendors.
Budapest, and Hungary in general, have a fantastic cuisine, so taking advantage of a gastronomical tour of the city is usually a rewarding experience. Most of those tours start at the Market Hall.
The pedestrian Vaci Street starts at the grand market and runs parallel to the river for a couple of kilometers, lined with boutiques and restaurants. As with any street of such type, it is almost perpetually busy with people.
If you are in Budapest during Christmastime, two major markets are located in central Pest. The Vörösmarty Market is set up in a circular fashion around the square of the same name, which makes it feel spacious (it does become crowded nonetheless). The Basilica Market – aka the Advent Market – is the other main fair, more congested, with the cathedral providing an excellent backdrop. After dark, every half hour there is a 5-minute multi-media show projected onto the grand church’s façade. I caught at least three different ones.
The Ferris Wheel in Elizabeth Square is among the newer attractions in town. Great angle for the elevated cathedral views. If you go at the end of the day midweek, expect practically no lines, but long waits are the norm at peak times.
The expansive Heroes Square is another one of Budapest signature sights, sitting at the northern end of Andrássy Street, with the majestic Millennium Monument as its centerpiece. Two large art galleries stand on either side of the square. The Museum of Fine Arts is the only non-Hungarian-centric collection of art in the city, focused on pre-18th-century art; it exhibits many famous masters from all over Europe and yet somehow leaves the impression of an average collection; the gorgeous Roman Hall on the ground floor is among the highlights. Műcsarnok Art Gallery, Hungary’s largest exhibition space, hosts temporary exhibitions of contemporary painting and sculpture.
Behind the square is the vast city park, Városliget, which houses several attractions. Foremost of all, Vajdahunyad Castle was built in 1896 for Hungarian Millennium celebrations (the anniversary of the Magyars settling in what later became Hungary). This is not a true castle, but rather a complex of buildings illustrating various architectural styles that existed in Hungary at the time of construction. Overall, there are over 20 of Hungary’s most renowned buildings represented here. Most of the viewing is from outside, though. The gateway towers and Jáki Chapel can be visited for a few, but otherwise the interior space is taken up by the Museum of Agriculture.
The Hungarian House of Music provides another main visual highlight nearby. Also within the park are a zoo and the Vidámpark funfair. Entrance fees are pretty negligible, and both provide an excellent diversion from sightseeing for your tired and bored offspring. On my most recent visit, I saw a newish air balloon ride ascending to the sky at intervals. In wintertime, a huge skating rink operates on the pond between the park and Heroes Square, offering another activity for those so inclined.
When Budapest became a single city in 1873, there was a third component beyond Buda and Pest that joined in. Óbuda, to the north of Buda on the west bank of the Danube, is in the “further afield” category for most of the visitors to Budapest. The main tourist attraction here is the Aquincum Museum, which sits on the ruins of the former provincial seat of the Roman Empire. The museum is not too big, and the ruins are mostly wall outlines; interesting features, such as mosaics, are found here or there. A couple of defined spaces are open only on a limited schedule in dry weather.
Pálvölgyi Cave is also roughly in this area – a treat for anyone who likes subterranean exploration, and not a bad attraction for everyone else. There are not that many stalactites, but plenty of occasional fun features. Tours are offered hourly with a guide who only speaks Hungarian; an audio app gives commentary in many languages, with a more leisurely delivery than that of the live guide. The location of the cave is somewhat out of the way – bus options exist but run infrequently, so using a taxi to get here may be the best option.
Margaret’s Island plays the Central Park role for Budapest residents, with a number of minor attractions and features and a lot of meadows and wooded areas for relaxation.
Southward of the city center on the eastern bank, the still relatively new Müpa Budapest complex (including the National Theater, and the Ludwig Museum for contemporary arts) is likely a sight that you would visit only if you avail yourself of a guided tour.
If you are interested in unusual quests, miniature statues by Mihály Kolodko ♥ offer a fantastic way to explore the city. There are over a dozen, maybe even more: three on the Buda embankment, one at the top funicular terrace, two in Liberty Square, one near the great synagogue, one by the Vajdahunyad Castle, one on Liberty Bridge, one on the southern tip of the Margaret Island, three or four in different other parts of Pest… Practically all are marked on Google Maps, but in general, unless you have their locations recorded in advance, they are easy to miss, each being just three or four inches tall.
Of course, normal-size statuary is also found everywhere. In fact, if you go on any guided tour, you are more than likely to hear your guide say something about Budapest having more statues than any other European city.
Taking to the hot springs is nearly a must-do on a Budapest visit. There are several well-known baths in Budapest, most of which not only provide pleasant relaxation but also aspire to be sights to see, in terms of architecture and decor. The most well-known such establishment is Széchenyi Baths at the edge of Városliget, a beautiful neo-Baroque complex that houses a medical clinic (step into its foyer, if you have time, for a look at the stunning ceiling mosaics) and the public thermal pools. There are pools of different temperatures, from 30°C to 40°C, plenty of hydro-massage implements, as well as a swift-current whirlpool, infinitely popular with children. Gellért Baths in a grand Art Deco hotel of the same name by the Liberty Bridge are another popular choice.
It should be noted that soaking in warm waters for a lengthy interval has a certain effect on the body, so plan your activities accordingly. You may not be physically up to lots of walking and sightseeing after you leave the spa. However, the most uncrowded time to visit is in the morning on a regular workday, so I would not recommend spending the morning sightseeing and coming to the baths in the afternoon.
In warm months, a boat cruise on the Danube is another popular attraction. There are several offerings of the kind alongside the river embankment; the cheapest options usually last exactly an hour and proceed upriver around Margaret Island and back, under the accompaniment of commentary in heavily-accented English and German.
Numerous musical performances are being held in various venues in Budapest throughout the year. A performance by Rajko Folk Ensemble, with a virtuoso play on violins and percussion, and fiery and graceful dances, was among the highlights – if obviously a very touristy thing to do – on our visit in 2009.
Practicalities
Budapest has all different types of public transportation – metro, buses, trams, trolleys – which combine in a reasonably efficient and wide-reaching system, and the cost of a trip is the same on all of them in the city center. There are various passes available, including family tickets and multi-day cards. Digital tickets require validation at the entrance, and there are regular human ticket controls at the metro station elevators (and occasionally on trams).
Having a Budapest Card may be useful if you plan to visit various museums and paid-for points of interest. The 72-hour version breaks even after half a dozen attractions with a handful of public transportation rides, but research in advance what you plan to visit, since not everything is included (and a lot of museums are closed on Mondays). You still need to go to the ticket desk at each establishment, present your card, and obtain a paper entry ticket for the ensuing controls. A couple of places (the funicular and the Mátyás Church) are only included on the “72-hr-plus” version of the card which is overpriced to the point of not being worth the additional two attractions.
If you are interested in guided tours, we hired Gabriella Török (link) in 2009 for a couple of days of city exploration. Excellent English, open to customizing the itineraries to your liking.
Lodging
Accommodation-wise, any location in either Buda or Pest that is close to the river will put you within walking distance of most of the points of interest. The extensive transport options make staying somewhere outside of the city center workable as well.
Dining
As in any other well-visited destination, whether you reserve a table in advance based on online ratings or just pick a restaurant at random, it is hard to have a truly disappointing meal in Budapest, so don’t be afraid to take a chance on a place that catches your eye. I personally prefer local vibes in less touristy areas, but sometimes sitting down in an eatery on a crowded square can have its rewards.
Worthy of a specific recommendation are: Café Kör (on Sas Street around the corner from the Basilica), with an interesting menu and nice ambiance despite being a clear tourist favorite; Trofea Grill (on Király Street), an all-you-can-eat buffet with a great selection of food and an unlimited supply of drinks including wine or beer; reservations here are for set 3-hour slots, which may not be universally convenient (17:30-20:15 too early, 20:15-23:00 too late); or Kéhli Vendéglő (near Árpád Bridge in Óbuda), with great local atmosphere due to being away from tourist routes, a fantastic menu and superb food all around.
Beyond Budapest
Towns on the Danube Bend (Szentendre, Visegrád, Esztergom), UNESCO World Heritage sites of Pannonhalma and Hollókő, or Lake Balaton can all be easily visited on day trips from Budapest. Their highlights are covered in this post. The central location of the capital and extensive transportation links put a lot of other destinations in Hungary and abroad – e.g., Bratislava – within easy reach.