Every big city has its share of impressive architectural highlights and interesting museums. Milan is certainly not an exception to that rule, even though I have always viewed it as not really a top sightseeing destination on its own. It does not boast a significant number of must-see sights, nor does it offer a great variety of pleasant walking routes or spaces to linger – the main criteria that I, in my infinite wisdom subjectivity, consider the hallmarks of a remarkable place to visit.
On the other hand, if you are looking to explore multiple destinations in Northern Italy on a single itinerary by either car or train, you can hardly find a better base than Milan. As my plans were precisely of that kind, I spent a little bit of time in Milan again in November – and even set aside a day to reacquaint myself with the city.
That day was pretty dreary weather-wise – ironically, the only such day of the entire trip – but I still made a pretty good circuit of both familiar points of interest, and some heretofore unexplored ones.
One familiar sight – and the only true must-see attraction in Milan, in my opinion – is the Duomo.
As seen in that opening shot, the grand piazza in front of the cathedral was in the process of being taken over by the preparations for Christmas festivities (the not-yet-lit tree) and the upcoming Olympic Games (the Visa Megastore pavilion). That forced me to stand much closer to the Duomo than usual for the customary full-frontal picture.
The cathedral, whose construction started in the 14th century and did not finish until after WWII (you can even argue it continues to this day, with perpetual scaffolding in many places), is one of the largest Christian places of worship in the world, and the second-largest Gothic cathedral (after Seville). My first impression of its interior, from over twenty years ago, was lukewarm: it felt somewhat ascetic for such a grand church. I don’t think I know of another cathedral that hangs paintings between columns in the nave – intentionally or not, they project a vibe of being there purposefully to add a bit of color to the otherwise bland palette. Over the course of repeated visits, I came to increasingly appreciate the amazing stained glass and other decorative and votive details found throughout the Duomo.
The roof of the cathedral is something else entirely. Nowhere else can you get up so close and personal with the flamboyant Gothic tracery of spires, buttresses, and statuary. The perspectives over the city roofline are a bonus.
The historic commercial focal point of the city, Piazza Mercanti, dates from the 13th century and is, for my money, the most visually consistent “old-town” location in Milan.
Arco della Pace is one of the symbols of the city, built in the first half of the 19th century. Although initially conceived to commemorate military triumphs, like its brethren elsewhere, it is actually dedicated to the peace agreements of the Vienna Congress of 1815, hence the name.
The arch acts as the gateway to the large and pleasant Parco Sempione. On the opposite side of the park stands Castello Sforzesco, seen here in the distance through the haze and mist.
On to a significantly more modern highlight of Milan, Bosco Verticale. The residential complex at the northern edge of the city center is just over a decade old. There are over ninety plant species, including tall shrubs and trees, distributed on the façades of two skyscrapers.
It should be noted that there are other buildings in various districts of Milan that incorporate vegetation in their designs. The city is clearly at the forefront of the movement for urban reforestation, even though central Milan is unlikely to ever be called “green”.
Not far from Bosco Verticale is the main business district of Milan, a cluster of modern skyscrapers, with the open-air mall of Piazza Gae Aulenti as its focal point.
The persistent drizzle over the course of the day forced me inside on several occasions. I used the opportunity to stop by Museo Poldi Pezzoli, one relatively major attraction in town that I had not visited before. I cannot say that I would rate its collections too high on the list of what to see (for a superior painting collection, Pinacoteca Brera is the top choice in Milan), but my general affinity for museums always translates into finding interesting artifacts and details in practically any such institution.
I also stopped by the church of San Maurizio al Monastero Maggiore, which is my number 2 sight to see in Milano after the Duomo. In a rare departure from my usual MO, I did not take any pictures on the premise that I had photographed it really well in the past. Reviewing my past Milan retrospectives upon return home, I realized that I had only posted a few pictures of the incredibly painted church. So here is a bunch of photos from way back in 2018.
A few random Milan perspectives. Piazza Armando Diaz, along Via Gaetano Giardino.
Close-up of Chiesa di Santa Maria presso San Satiro.
Via Gesù off the fashion hotbed of Via Montenapoliano.
Fontana di Piazza Castello in front of the aforementioned Castello Sforzesco.
The middle finger monument on Piazza degli Affari in front of the Italian Stock Exchange.
Officially known as “L.O.V.E.” (acronym of Libertà, Odio, Vendetta, Eternità – Freedom, Hatred, Revenge, Eternity), it was created in 2010 for a retrospection exhibition by the sculptor Maurizio Cattelan and later donated to the city. The exact meaning of the sculpture remains unclear; the two most accepted explanations are that it represents both a critique of religious fanaticism and the Fascist salute, and that it is designed as a protest against financial institutions after the 2008 financial crisis.
Colonnade San Lorenzo near Porta Ticinese is a very photogenic sight after the fall of darkness.
Beyond that one full-day walkabout, I barely set foot in central Milan, opting to explore other destinations instead.
But before we move on, a few phone pictures from Navigli Grande. My rented apartment was near this one of the most bustling nightlife areas of Milan. Every evening, I took a stroll around the canal.
And with that, we’ll go to locations in Lombardy, Piedmont, Liguria, and even Veneto, in the subsequent installments.
This article is also featured on GPSmyCity. To download this article for offline reading or create a self-guided walking tour to visit the attractions highlighted in this article, go to Walking Tours and Articles in Milan.