Destination appeal

Our verdict

I am slightly ambivalent about Rome. On one hand, I adore its fountains and beautiful squares; on the other hand, I think that central city architecture is spotty, with too much of less than delightful edifices surrounding the true gems. On one hand, I appreciate centuries of history in this Eternal City; on the other hand, most of the monuments dating to the Ancient Rome demand a lot from your imagination, being largely in ruins.

One thing that bothered me immensely in Rome are hordes of street vendors that accosted us wherever we went. We were especially disturbed by that on our short stop-over in town in April of 2007. In 2009, we did not see the problem as acutely; it could be that the phenomenon is seasonal, or it could be that the local authorities are taking a stand against it.

It cannot be debated, in any case, that Rome is one of the greatest cities of the Western world, and a must-see destination in one’s lifetime.

Things to See

Rome’s squares – some adorned with obelisks, some with fountains, many with both – are a true delight. Among the places that you have to find yourself on your wanderings about the city are: Dramatically Baroque Piazza Navona ♥♥♥ with its three fountains, the central of which, Bernini’s Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi, is utterly resplendent; sometimes excessively busy Piazza di Spagna ♥♥♥, with its famous eponymous stairway leading up to the French church above; a bit too open to the motor traffic Piazza Barberini ♥, whose Triton Fountain is one of the loveliest; grand Piazza del Popolo ♥♥; lively Campo de’ Fiori ♥, with cafés surrounding the spot where Giordano Bruno was burned at stake. You won’t miss the expansive Piazza Venezia ♥, of course, with its humongous Monument to Vittorio Emanuele II, called with derision alternatively either a “typewriter” or a “wedding cake”. Piazza del Quirinale ♥, Piazza Colonna, the list can go on and on…

The famous Fontana di Trevi ♥♥♥ attracts so many visitors that the small square on which it sits is often bursting at the seams with crowds. In my opinion, it’s all worth it: The fountain is an exquisite piece of sculpture and architecture.

Pantheon ♥♥♥, fantastically preserved after two thousand years of standing, sits on noisy Piazza della Rotonda ♥ and is a most extraordinary monument both on the outside and inside, a vast cylindrical dome equal in radius and height. Its only source of light is the circular opening in the roof, and the floor is tilted in a way to properly manage the rain that enters through that oculus (watching the rain fall down inside Pantheon is an interesting sight). The tomb of Raphael and sarcophagi of Italian monarchs line the perimeter of the magnificent building.

Most of the other attractions from the Ancient Roman times are situated in the southern part of the city core. Colosseum ♥♥♥ does not require much introduction, of course, and it’s an awesome sight to behold. Touring it is a fascinating experience, although this is one place where you need to start using your imagination to form a picture of how the things were millenia ago. You’ll have to rely on your imagination even more on your visit to the Roman Forum ♥♥ – there are a number of columns, even a couple of porticoes, still standing here or there, and the well-preserved arches of Titus and Septimius Severus, but a person not highly attuned to the subject of ancient history will mostly see ruins around a field strewn with blocks of stonework.

What we liked most about the forum is how it looks at night, with lighting. The best viewpoint to take it in is off Piazza del Campidoglio ♥, itself a beautiful square, flanked by buildings of Capitoline Museums that we did not visit.

Note: On our most recent trip, we walked up to Campidoglio late in the evening to find Forum not lighted at all; we have no knowledge of whether it is a temporary or permanent change.

The Arch of Constantine ♥ is another well-preserved artifact of the Empire, and there are two more worthwhile attractions of that era nearby, the Palatine hill ♥, with its ruins of the patrician palaces, and the Trajan’s Forum, with its majestic column and the market complex that we only saw in passing.

Rome, as behooves the capital of Catholicism, has literally dozens of beautiful churches, many of which contain important works of art. We looked into quite a few: Santa Maria in Trastevere ♥♥♥, with breathtaking mosaics and frescoes; Santa Maria sopra Minerva ♥♥, with brilliant blue ceilings, fronted by one of the funnest obelisks in Rome, Bernini’s elephant; small and pristine San Carlo alla Quattro Fontane ♥; church of Trinita dei Monti atop Spanish Steps; San Carlo al Corso; etc.

Santa Maria Maggiore ♥ deserves an altogether separate mention. It is a blend of several architectural styles – to wit, the lavish ceiling is Renaissance, the façades and domes are Baroque, – and is also famous for its mosaics.

Then, of course, there is Vatican. The enormous Piazza San Pietro ♥♥♥ is one of the most spectacular public spaces that I’ve ever seen in my life, with its semi-encircling colonnade, fountains, obelisks and statues. The incomparable St Peter’s Cathedral ♥♥♥ cannot be adequately described in words – I’m not even going to try. The view from its top terrace is worth the effort of climbing 491 steps, but be warned: Some parts of the climb are very tight and feel quite claustrophobic.

If you want to send a postcard from Vatican, there are three main locations to do that. The post office on the right of the square (if you face the cathedral) is the least crowded of the three. The one on the left of the square is subject to a lot of pedestrian traffic from the cathedral’s exit and, therefore, is much more crowded. The main post office is inside Vatican’s walls and, reputably, is a nice building in itself. We figured the smallest crowds suffice for us.

The colourfully dressed Vatican guards allow themselves to be photographed with children. They are positioned to the left of the cathedral.

Vatican Museums ♥♥♥ hold one of the most important art collections in the world, headlined by Raphael. You will have to endure longest waits if you do not buy tickets in advance. The last Sunday of every month the entry to museums is free, and it pays to arrive an hour and a half before the opening; by the time the doors open, the line stretches for several kilometers. Sistine Chapel ♥♥♥ can only be reached through the museum – whether you love religious art or hate it, you’ll have to admit that frescoes by Michelangelo and other artists are masterpieces of unrivaled proportions.

A majestic and massive fortress, Castel Sant’Angelo ♥♥♥ is home to several exhibitions highlighting its history. There are a number of magnificent rooms with vivid frescoes, and the view of Rome from the top-level terrace is one of the best in the city.

For a respite from the bustling city, Villa Borghese ♥ is a large pleasant park, where hiring a pedal-powered carriage for cruising around is a popular activity. Make sure you get the one with a motorized boost; otherwise, the ratio of hard work versus enjoyment will tilt against you.

The Borghese Museum and Gallery ♥ is on the park’s grounds. The ground floor consists of nine splendid rooms full of superb sculpture, while the upper level contains an outstanding collection of paintings. Entry is timed and a limited number of people are allowed in for each two-hour interval; advance ticket purchase is essential.

The area of Trastevere ♥ around the church of Santa Maria is a hip and happening cluster of streets and squares lined with cafeés and shops.

Ghetto ♥, conversely, does not appear particularly hip, but it is, nonetheless, an area with some of the best restaurants in Rome, and it gets quite lively in the evenings. We walked by Rome’s central synagogue without going on a tour that it offers.

At the beginning of Via Portico d’Ottavia, the main street of the Ghetto, there is a well-known pastry shop Il Boccione, where stern-looking all-female staff dispenses freshly-baked treats. We tried their specialty, torte di ricotta e visciole – those with a sweet tooth will love it!

Transportation

We walked almost everywhere in Rome, having stayed largely within the city core. The couple of times we used metro, we did not like it much. Our recollection is that of the worst subway system that we have ever used anywhere – infrequent, badly-maintained and overall unpleasant. With only two lines in operation in 2003, not many places are within easy reach by metro. The bus network is considerably more extensive, but we did not try any of the city buses.

Taxis, however, are relatively inexpensive and useful. We hired a taxi several times during our visit in 2009, and paid less than €15 on every occasion. A fixed-rate of €40 is in effect for going to the airport from the city center.

Lodging

We rented a room at a B&B a couple of blocks away from Santa Maria Maggiore (as well as the main train station) in September of 2003. Our records show a good-sized room with en-suite bathroom (not always a given in Italian B&Bs) and a location a bit on the fringes of central city, but not too inconvenient walking-wise. The windows of our room looked into the inner courtyard, which resonated with fairly loud sounds of locals in the morning. Breakfast was rather limited, but borderline acceptable. For the price that we paid, this Budget B&B (link) was adequate.

In May of 2009, we stayed at another B&B, Pantheon View (link). It occupies part of the top floor in a building literally a few doors down from the Pantheon, and you can see a segment of Pantheon’s roof from your windows, just as the name of the etsablishment promises. The location is as central in Rome as one could get. The accommodations itself are no more than adequate. Our “suite” had a serviceable double bedroom, but the second bedroom was of a closet-like variety, with two single beds taking up practically all the available space and only a small window below the ceiling. A fan in each room was sufficient for a moderately cool weather during our visit, but I have doubts whether it would be sufficient on hot nights. The bathroom had a shower stall, but no bidet, an amenity that we’ve become accustomed to on our stays in Italy.

The place was clean, but not too cheerful. The noise from Piazza della Rotonda reached the open windows easily late at night. The elevator did not function on the day of our arrival, so we had to lug our bags ourselves for what felt like five floors up (only three, in fact, and the elevator got fixed the next day). The breakfast was decent, with some pastries, toasts, jam, cheese slices, tea, coffee, juice. A reasonable place to stay for people who require little beyond a bed (and simple breakfast).

Places to Eat

We had several good meals in Rome in the spring of 2009 at restaurants for which we found recommendations online. All places visited as a party of four (two adults, two children).

Cassetta di Trastevere ♥♥, on Piazza de’ Renzi in Trastevere, sits on a small square, with both outside and inside seating areas. We sat indoors, in a dining room decorated to resemble a Mediterranean village, complete with wash-lines festooned with pieces of clothing. Quite an extensive menu, with prices roughly half of what you’d normally pay for dining. Good pizza, pasta, meat dishes. Excellent panna cotta for dessert. Our damage: €67, including a carafe of house wine and gratuities. Cash only.

Giggetto ♥♥♥, on Via Portico d’Ottavia in Ghetto, is widely known in Rome and beyond. One of the place that offers a Jewish-Italian mix of cuisines, it is extremely popular. Reservations are essential! There are several dining rooms and a couple of outdoors dining areas, and they were all full during our meal. The service is excellent, the wine list very extensive. The food is excellent, starting with fried artichokes through pastas and on to oxtail or veal with porcini and peas. Our damage: €134, including a bottle of wine, before gratuities.

We returned to Ghetto for a lunch, which we had at Piperno ♥, on little Monte de’ Cenci. This restaurant had a upscale feel, with fine cutlery and dishes and middle-aged waiters dressed in white jackets with black bow-ties. The service was of “refined” quality, although I did notice a waiter peeking over our heads to see if we finished our dishes. The food was good, but we did not order anything that would bowl us over. The damage was a bit too steep for a lunch: €100, including gratuities, without any wine to account for.

Ad Hoc ♥♥, on Via Ripetta, impresses from the very beginning with the shelves of wine bottles on open display. The wine list is virtually endless, and the menu, while not very extensive, is pretty interesting in that it provides a detailed description of each dish in both Italian and English. An attractive young waitress was almost fawning in her friendliness, which was compensated by another, not as friendly, hostess. Outstanding food. For starters, we had fish carpaccio and eggplant served in earthenware pots. For main courses, saltimbocca and salmon ravioli were very well received. Dessert sampler, consisting of pieces of four different cakes, disappointed a little – none of the cakes were great, a couple were somewhat cloying, – but berries with chantilly cream were excellent. Our online reservation entitled us to 15% off the bill, so the damage, with a bottle of wine but before gratuities, came to €125.

Coffee gourmands may appreciate Caffe Sant’Eustachio, on the eponymous square, more than we did. It is quite famous for the specialty coffee that it serves, but we are far from aficionados. We tried it for the experience.

Our notes from the stay in Rome in September of 2003 frequently mention good meals without elaborating. I can gather the names of establishments that we dined at from various records, but most of them cannot be located on the internet, which makes me think that they all went out of business by now. The only one remaining, La Focaccia on Via della Pace near the church of the same name, is a pizzeria where we stopped twice, so that must be a good recommendation in itself.

Tivoli

This erstwhile resort of the ancient Romans still contains a number of temples in different stages of preservation or ruin. We did not actually tour anything in town, as our sole purpose was a visit to Villa d’Este ♥♥♥. The sumptuous residence of a 16th-century cardinal is all about its terraced garden full of spectacular fountains. Some of the fountains show their age, but the overall impression is quite remarkable.

On the way to Tivoli from Rome, another major attraction, ruins of Hadrian’s Villa, awaits our visit some other time.

Getting to Tivoli by public transport requires a bit of determination. Buses to Tivoli can be caught at the last stop of the B metro line, Rebibbia, but they actually depart from a station next to one of the previous metro stops. The buses are infrequent and get crowded at the point of departure. We managed to squeeze into a bus at Rebibbia, but the ride was hugely unpleasant. On the way back, we waited for a bus at a stop in Tivoli for good 40 minutes. The effort was worth it for us, but may not be for some.

Destination appeal

Our verdict

Venice is utterly unique in the Western world, and all the more fascinating for that. While there are other cities built on extensive canal networks, only in Venice those canals represent the actual transportation routes. And since the rest of the city is completely pedestrian, you get a feeling of immersion into something exciting and unfamiliar like nowhere else in Europe.

What people who have not been to Venice do not realize is that the city is not all made of canals. The central part of Venice is actually made of streets that mostly do not cross canals, and they are so narrow and short that the existence of the sky is not exactly apparent and keeping a geographic course is virtually impossible. You walk as if along a corridor, which abuts another corridor, which leads to a small “room”, – a square – from which another couple of corridors run off, and so on and so forth. Only when one of these little arteries happens to reach a large square or becomes a bridge across a canal, you realize that you are moving around a city. The sensation is very strange, but also very romantic.

Note for parents traveling with kids aged 7-13: At the very start of your visit to Venice, find a bookshop and buy “Venice for Children” book. It covers all of the major sights and is written in a way that’ll keep your child engaged. You’ll want to read it yourself…

Things to See

Hardly any person visiting Venice for the first time does not start with Piazza San Marco ♥♥♥. The only square in the city designated as piazza (all others are called either campo, “field”, or its diminutive, campiello), it is a most remarkable public space. Considerable segment of it used to be owned by thousands of pigeons (who were altogether missing on our latest visit in 2009), but neither that nor ever-present hordes of tourists diminish the impression.

The piazza is fronted by Basilica di San Marco ♥♥♥, a cathedral that is a splendid amalgamation of several architectural styles of West and East. The domes, the arches, the towers, the mosaics, the Horses of St Mark above the main doors – it all combines in one resplendent architectural spectacle. The interior splendor is almost blinding, with over 43,000 sq ft of golden mosaics. The treasury contains a number of magnificent artifacts collected by the Venetian Republic over the centuries. The gold-and-gemstones altarpiece, Pala d’Oro, is certainly worth the extra fee to view.

Another major attraction located right on the square is the Campanile ♥♥♥, which is actually the exact copy of the original tower that stood on this spot since the middle ages but collapsed at the beginning of the 20th century. Unlike many other bell-towers in Italy, this one is equipped with an elevator, which means potentially longer waiting time to get in, but a much easier ascent than elsewhere. The view from the top over the city and the entire lagoon is through the wire-mesh, but is nonetheless breathtaking; beware – it might be very windy.

You can also view Torre dell’Orologio on the piazza, with its elaborate clock and two moors who hit the bell with their hammers when the time strikes. The rest of the buildings that surround the square on three sides are mostly of administrative nature and house expensive cafés and smart shops, plus a civic museum, Museo Correr, that we never visited.

At nights, there are live chamber orchestras playing at a few of the cafés around the piazza. If you decide to sit down to take in a performance, expect the food and drink bill to be outrageous. We decided that it was one of quintessential Venetian experiences, and are willing to put ♥♥ next to it; we picked café Quadri, and sat there for over an hour enjoying the music; two coffees each cost €8.50, plus there was a “music surcharge” of €5.70 per person. But if you don’t want to incur this expense and don’t mind standing right outside the last row of tables, you can listen to a pretty good performance gratis (still worth ♥♥) and even move from one café to another when the music sets alternate. If you’re not bashful, you may even dance.

Next to the cathedral, on what is an appendix to the piazza called Piazzetta San Marco stands Palazzo Ducale ♥♥♥. It’s a dazzling example of Gothic architecture. The tour of the interior includes several magnificent rooms and the famous Giant’s Staircase. There is no furniture in the palace and many works of art are recent additions to the ensemble, but the luxurious nature of this rulers’ residence is visible everywhere. The excellent audio-guide narration explores in detail the history of the Republic and its administrative structure and functions.

You’ll walk over the Bridge of Sighs while on tour of the Doge’s Palace. Afterwards, if you walk around the palace towards Riva degli Schiavoni, you will be able to see the famous passage from the outside. To be honest, I don’t rate it as anything extraordinary.

Piazzetta San Marco opens onto a vast expanse of water, from where the Grand Canal ♥♥♥ starts. You cannot walk along the canal, but you can ride its entire length on the route #1 of the vaporetto. I highly recommend doing that – and try to commandeer a seat at the front of the boat. Ride all the way to the final stop at Piazzale Roma… and then do it again going in the opposite direction. I don’t possess enough superlatives to describe the views.

If you’re up to it, try going for this vaporetto cruise in the very early morning, before most of the tourists – or even residents – are out and about. The sight of the palaces illuminated by the rising sun is mesmerizing.

Only three bridges span the Grand Canal, and the middle one of those, Rialto ♥♥♥ is one of the city’s symbols. It is a prime spot for observing the hustle and bustle of the canal traffic from above.

There are dozens of interesting churches in Venice, many of them containing important works of art. The grandest of them, Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari ♥♥♥ and Santi Giovanni e Paolo ♥♥, are worth the nominal price of entry to explore. (Next to the latter is the beautiful marble façade of Ospedale Civile – you will be forgiven for thinking that to be the church’s entrance, at first.) Other churches are usually free for entry, and we stepped into quite a few of them. Santa Maria della Salute ♥♥, the imposing church at the mouth of Grand Canal, has interesting history and mostly ascetic interior. We also saw: Beautiful San Stefano ♥; unassuming San Maurizio ♥ with a fascinating exhibition of string instruments inside; Santa Maria Formosa; San Stae; San Giovanni Cristosomo; richly decorated San Zulian ♥.

Of the art museums in Venice, Accademia ♥ is probably the most impressive and comprehensive in covering the spectrum of the Venetian school. The collection is dominated by religious and ceremonial works, which unfortunately run on the fringes of our art affinities. Nonetheless, it is nearly a must for any art lover. Note of warning: The museum is not air-conditioned; on hot days, it can get pretty stuffy inside.

Some of art collections in Venice are located in former palaces, one of which, in Ca’ d’Oro ♥, we did visit. Despite the fact that many guidebooks mention this as a top sight, we came away underwhelmed. The palazzo is striking, even though there is none of the gold referred to in its name remaining; the interior and the collection are interesting, but no more than that.

Other art museums, such as Peggy Guggenheim Collection and especially Ca’ Rezzonico, will have to wait for our future visits to Venice.

The area known as Jewish Ghetto is not especially distinguishable from other parts of central Venice, but on its main square, Campo Ghetto Nuovo, there are a couple of poignant memorials and the little Museo Ebraica, where you can get on a guided tour of three adjoining synagogues ♥. You may have to strain your cognitive skills to decipher the guide’s English accent, but the Sephardic synagogue is very beautiful, and the 45-minute tour is probably worth the time and expense.

Your sightseeing in Venice will likely be mostly confined to the central San Marco and San Polo districts (sestieri) of the city, with only parts of Dorsoduro and Canareggio visited. On our very first visit, we also explored parts of Castello, walking all the way to the pleasant Giardini Garibaldi far away from the tourist bustle.

I cannot overemphasize how delightful it is to get lost ♥♥♥ in Venice. Forget about your map for a while; ignore the ubiquitous signs that point to major sights on many corners. Just walk in any direction, make turns as you wish, pick a random estuary alleyway from any given square, see what you come across… I could do that for days.

Getting into a gondola ♥♥♥ should be no less delightful. Gliding under arched bridges in a sleek vessel is a romantic experience, and it is also the only way to get close to the feeling of waterway-enabled dwelling. I prefer the narrow side canals portions of the ride to being on the Grand Canal while in gondola, but the latter portion is still quite pleasing. This is not a cheap attraction, at roughly €100 for a 45-minute ride (open to negotiating at right periods of time; the prices seemed to be the same in 2009 as they were years ago), but in our opinion, very well worth it.

Based on my interactions with people I know, the impression of your gondola ride, should you decide to go for one, will color your entire impression of Venice. Not all gondoliers are made equal, unfortunately, and while I mostly observed them going out of their way to put their customers in the mood and at ease (tips above the negotiated price are very much welcomed, obviously), some may not be as attentive. Plus, in high season at peak times, you run a strong risk of being surrounded by other gondolas following largely the same circuit as you are, which definitely drives any romantic feelings away. To prevent any of this from happening, consider erring on the side of planning versus spontaneity in hiring a gondola: Pick the time when few tourists are doing the gondolas (the hours before dinner, 5-7pm, seem to be a nice slow period); look for places to hire a ride other than the main stations along the Grand Canal or near Piazza San Marco (this has the added bonus of prices being slightly lower away from the busy touristy areas); chat up your prospective gondolier for a minute or two before getting into the boat and try to gauge his level of friendliness, command of English, etc. This will very simply maximize your chances of getting a truly romantic and memorable experience.

Related to gondolas, a little sight that may be interesting to some is one of the few remaining gondola repair shops, found if you walk along Fondamenta Priuli and on, past San Trovaso in Dorsoduro.

For avid market-goers, Rialto market ♥♥, including its famous fish section, is a place to visit during morning hours.

Islands

Of the many islands in the lagoon, three are widely considered among top sights in Venice. It is possible to see all three in one day.

Murano ♥ is primarily famous for its glass-making, and the key attraction there is attending a glass-blowing workshop presentation ♥♥♥. There are several places that you can manage that along Fondamenta dei Vetrai or Fondamenta Daniele Manin near Colonna side of the island (where you will first arrive on vaporetto from Venice). Look for fornace signs.

Other than that, there is little to do on Murano. Glass art showcases are spectacular, but you see a couple of them and they start to blur. In any case, buying a Murano glass souvenir is more expensive on Murano itself that it is on Venetian “mainland” (I have no knowledge of whether there might be any authenticity concerns, though). There is a mildly interesting Museum of Glass and the architectural highlight of the island, the attractive church of Santi Marie e Donato ♥, which could be visited. The streets of Murano are not really exceptional.

Burano ♥♥♥, by contrast, is wildly colorful and delightful just to walk through. It is the local capital of lace, and there is even a museum of lace at Scuola dei Merletti, which we did not visit. The houses around the main square and along every street and canal are painted in various bright hues, giving the little town an incredibly festive air.

Finally, Torcello ♥ is a mostly uninhabited island, which is one of the earliest settlements in the lagoon. The main attraction here is Santa Maria ♥♥ basilica, with brilliant mosaics in the apse and on the walls. The campanile ♥ can be ascended (mostly via inclined ramps, there are less than 100 steps in total at the ends of ramps) for nice views of the island and nearby Burano. Church of Santa Fosca ♥ is quite interesting as well, and there is also Museo dell’Estuario that we did not visit. There is about a 10-minute walk from vaporetto stop to the “village” where all of the attractions are located, but even accounting for that, you may be able to fit exploration of Torcello into just one hour.

Transportation

The vaporetto (water bus) network serves many points along the Grand Canal and around the perimeter of the city, and connects central areas with many islands in the lagoon. There is no form of public transport on any of the little canals, and while distances are always within walkable range, plenty of walking will be involved no matter what you plan to see that’s located “inland”.

If you are spending several days in Venice, definitely consider getting a 72-hours iMob pass. It pays for itself within 5 trips on vaporetto, and allows traveling on all lines around the lagoon. The countdown starts from the moment you first validate it, not when you buy it.

Water taxis are quite expensive, but they could get you into some smaller canals. If you fly into Venice, consider hiring a water taxi to get to the center of the city from the airport. It costs €95 for up to four people, which is actually less than what you’d pay for a party of four to travel on direct “express” water bus (€25 per person). There are cheaper ways to get to central Venice than that (a shuttle bus to Piazzale Roma plus regular vaporetto from there would cost around €35 in total for four people), but none as fun.

Since there are only three bridges along the entire length of the Grand Canal, crossing it may present a problem, which is solved with traghetto, a primarily standing-room gondola ferry. There are traghetto crossings at various points on the canal (but some operate only in the first half of the day). The cost is €0.50 per person.

If you cannot find an operating traghetto crossing, you can always get on linea 1 vaporetto an get off at the next stop; the stops alternate between the sides of the Grand Canal.

All islands are served by various vaporetto routes, but there are frequency considerations. For instance, Torcello can only be reached from Burano; the trip takes 5 minutes, but runs only once every half an hour. If you do go to Burano and Torcello, it may be wise to explore Torcello first and only then spend time on enjoying Burano, since the latter is connected to Venice via a relatively direct vaporetto route. Nonetheless, it takes about 45 minutes to reach Fondamenta Nuove in Venice from Burano.

The main train station is located directly on the Grand Canal, with a vaporetto stop directly in front of it. Transferring between a train and a vaporetto is a matter of minutes, regardless of whether you are arriving or departing.

Lodging

In September of 2003, we stayed at Alloggi Barbaria ♥ (link), on Calle delle Cappuccine, on the outskirts of the central area. The hotel is rightfully billed as being located away from the tourist crush, but while nothing in Venice is too far for walking, the location is on towards the longer side when it comes to most of the major attractions. (Also, quiet streets in Venice tend to resonate with the sounds of a rare passerby; you really only have a choice between the constant noise of busy streets and the occasional, but piercing, noise on the “quiet” ones.)

Our record-keeping mode of that time did not leave much in terms of our impressions of the hotel, but I recall a good-size room and a nice breakfast on the open terrace.

In May of 2009, we rented an apartment within short distance from Rialto, Ca’ San Luca ♥♥ (link). Less than 10 minutes to Piazza San Marco from there as well. The apartment is nicely appointed, taking the entire second floor of a building on unassuming street. There are no views to be had, and you will be looking directly into offices and apartments across the street when you open the shutters.

There are two large bedrooms, a serviceable kitchen, bathroom with a shower and bidet, and a nice dining room. Almost perfect for a family holiday. The only shortcoming is the air conditioner, whose noise-to-efficiency ratio is not great. The unit sits in the hallway hidden only behind a drape, and if you do not shut your bedroom door, you will be bothered during the night every time it comes to life. It barely managed to keep the rooms ventilated; on truly hot days and nights I am not sure it would be up to the task.

Note for apartment renters: Finding a supermarket to stock your fridge is not a trivial task in Venice. We bought foodstuffs at shops that we accidentally came across in our wanderings.

Places to Eat

In the spring of 2009, we dined at a number of good restaurants, which are listed below. All visited as a party of four (two adults, two children).

Trattoria Da Nico ♥♥, on Frezzeria, was suggested by our apartment hosts. Nice place on a comparatively quiet street that is nonetheless part of the walking route between Rialto and San Marco. Most of the patrons were seemingly tourists, but the place did not feel like a tourist trap. Unobtrusive service. Excellent food, starting with an incredible seafood soup (in terms of both quality and presentation); very good vegetable soup; superb sea bass; nice vermicelli with clams; not bad lamb chops. Our damage: €140, including a bottle of wine, before gratuities.

Leon Bianco ♥♥, on the corner of Campo San Luca, was another recommendation by the apartment hosts, its garden directly below the courtyard windows of the apartment. The garden is quite nice to be seated in, the service is very friendly, the food pretty good. We had mostly pastas. Huge portion of mussels and clams for a starter went down very well. Great dessert: panna cotta, tiramisu and a sweet concoction called chocolate “salami”. Our damage: €120, including a bottle of wine, before gratuities.

Vini da Gigio ♥♥, on Fondamenta San Felice in Canareggio, was a recommendation by our good friends who dined there in the past. Two small dining rooms facing the canal quickly filled up. We sat in the corner with a pretty good outside view. The menu is not very extensive. We had fairly simple starters, such as fried cheese and tomato and mozzarella salad. Among main courses, ossobuco was fantastically tender and succulent, and pasta “i mori” with tuna or duck with potatoes were pretty good as well. Only one dish received a lukewarm reception, eel. All dishes were accompanied by polenta on the side. Excellent dessert in the form of strawberry tart with cheese. Stupendous choice of wines. Friendly and pleasant service. Our damage: €166, with a bottle of wine.

The same friends also recommended L’Anice Stellato ♥♥♥, which is located well into the depths of Canareggio, on Fondamenta della Sensa, along the eponymous medium-sized canal, of which we had a pretty nice view. The dining room filled up with tourists and locals alike, plus there were a few tables outside on the canal. Several walk-in potential customers were turned away for lack of seating space – reservations are recommended. There is no English menu, so an English-speaking waiter performed several acts of detailed explanations to tables occupied by tourists. There are no meat dishes, only seafood and pasta.

Starters section is dominated by bocconcini, which is loosely translated as “small bites”; we tried one of salmon and one of ricciola, a local fish. Our main course selections consisted of a pretty good sea bass, very tasty cota di rospa (some sort of fish in pesto-like sauce), and a gigantic heap of seafood and vegetables, frittura mista, which included one whole fried ricciola. Nice dessert and wine. Our damage: €138, including a bottle of wine.

Gam-Gam ♥♥, on Fondamenta di Canareggio, is in the Jewish Ghetto. Cuisine is Jewish-Mediterranean; definitely order at least one assaggi Israeliani, a sampler of various delicacies. Everything is very tasty. Our damage: €80, including gratuities. Cash only.

Pizzeria Ai Coghi ♥, on Campo San Silvestro, was a random choice for lunch on one of the days. Very good pizza. Our damage: €54, including half-bottle of wine.

While on Burano, we arbitrarily picked restaurant-pizzeria Principe ♥ for lunch. It is located across the bridge from where the main street of the island, Via Baldassare Galuppi, starts. There are probably 50 different varieties of pizza on the menu, plus other dishes. Our damage: €52.

On our first trip to Venice, in 2003, no specific records of the couple of meals that we had were kept, except the names of Ristorante La Gondola, not far from Piazza San Marco, and Ristorante Al Peoceto, near Rialto on San Polo side. I sort of recall the former being a typical tourist-oriented place, and, unfortunately, I have no memory of the latter.

Destination appeal

Our verdict

Tuscany is one place on Earth where everything comes together for me: the food, the vistas, the people, the wine, the history, the architecture…

Several destinations in Tuscany stand above others. First and foremost is certainly Florence (Firenze), reviewed in a separate article. Siena, San Gimignano and Piazza dei Miracoli in Pisa each deserve to be termed “musts” by a discerning traveler. In addition, there are literally dozens of interesting places in this divine region of Italy.
 

Siena

In 7 words: Fascinating history and culture plus Renaissance beauty. For your visit you need a full day to be able to explore city’s major sights while keeping pleasantly unhurried pace. Distances are walkable in all cases. Worthy attractions: Palazzo Pubblico [we did not tour inside] and Torre del Mangia; Duomo; Basilica di San Domenico. Left for another visit: Museo dell’Opera Metropolitana; Pinacoteca. Last visit: August 2008.

Siena, often overshadowed by its erstwhile rival Florence, is a town that easily awes its visitors.

The medieval center of the town, where automobile traffic is limited, is bigger than any other in Tuscany, while remaining relatively compact and walkable (there are some 30° climbs along certain side streets, though). The concentration of magnificent palaces dating to 11-13th centuries is probably even greater than in Florence.

The heart of the town, Piazza del Campo ♥♥♥, is one of those places which never fail to elicit a Wow!, no matter how many times you see it. Laid out in the shape of a giant shell, it is the setting of Siena’s famous horse race/festival Palio delle Contrade, and its entire expanse is often full of lounging people. Cafes, restaurants and fine medieval palazzi line the Campo’s fringes, dominated by Palazzo Pubblico, the graceful Gothic town hall, which is home to former magistrate apartments never visited by us. It also allows access to Torre del Mangia ♥, the second highest medieval tower ever built in Italy. The view from the top is pretty good, albeit through wire mesh, but a word of caution: Access to the tower is regulated for maximum allowed number of visitors at any given time; on one of our visits, during the supposed off-season, we chanced into a 25-minute wait before having been let in. The climb is not very hard, since each flight of steps is reasonably short, but the steps are extremely narrow, and two people going in opposite directions cannot pass without brushing against each other.

Do not let the imposing Palazzo’s ensemble to make you miss the little Fonte Gaia on the piazza’s northern edge. In addition to exquisite reliefs, the fountain has a distinction of getting its drinkable water from a 500-year-old aqueduct. You can fill your water bottle from a valve.

Siena’s Duomo ♥♥♥ is one of Italy’s grandest cathedrals, a spectacular mixture of sculpture, painting and Romanesque-Gothic architecture. Among its treasures are masterpieces by Donatello and Michelangelo and a fine inlaid marble pavement composed of 56 panels, depicting mythology and the scenes from the Old Testament. Do not miss Libreria Piccolomini with its magnificent fresco cycle. Certainly go inside the cathedral; but just standing in front of its entrance, looking at the intricately ornamental façade, is a treat. Many of façade statues are copies, with originals on display in the Museo dell’Opera (which we never have been to).

Note: You can buy your tickets for the cathedral visit by the baptistry, which has negligible lines compared to those by the cathedral entrance; you can then walk straight to the entrance, bypassing the long line.

Opposite the cathedral on Piazza del Duomo is Antico Ospedale di Santa Maria della Scala ♥. We walked in only once in our several visits to Siena, but the grand Sala del Pellegrinaio is worth lingering in for a while.

Basilica di San Domenico ♥ is spacious and airy, devoted largely to St Catherine of Siena.

There are several other churches and palaces that may be worth a visit, but we content ourselves with a leisurely walk along the narrow streets. Some of the palaces open the doors to its courtyards, gratis, and some hold exhibitions or allow tours. We especially like the tranquil courtyard of Palazzo Chigi-Saracini, graced by an old well.

Occasional passing cars are a nuisance, and tourists tend to flood major routes, but there are uncounted majestic architectural sights and picture spots, complemented by fashion and food shops.

Car parking

There is a number of car parks within walking distance of the city center (although, it will take you at least 15 minutes to get to Piazza del Campo from any of the lots). I normally park at Fortezza, which is free.

Places to Eat

Our culinary exploits in Siena have been limited to pizza, gelato and coffee on and around Piazza del Campo on various occasions. The pizza has been delicious on all occasions, and it is a fun little experience to buy a box of various slices, fill your water bottle by the Fonte Gaia and sit down somewhere on the piazza’s stones for an impromptu meal.
 

San Gimignano

In 6 words: Manhattan of Tuscany; well-preserved, too. For your visit half-day should be enough to explore the town. Distances are walkable in all cases. Worthy attractions: Duomo; Palazzo del Popolo with its Museo Civico and Torre Grossa. Last visit: August 2008.

San Gimignano, famous for its medieval towers, can be touristy to the point of being overrun, but it is still a gem of a town.

There are two interconnected central squares, Piazza della Cisterna ♥♥ and Piazza del Duomo ♥, and two major streets running away from them that attract most of the visitors. The buildings that line the streets are extremely well preserved (and/or restored) from their origin of centuries ago, so that one could even say that San Gimignano feels a bit artificial, sort of a small theme park built especially for tourists.

There are tons of shops on the main streets that emphasize that notion somewhat, selling souvenirs of all kinds. However, here and there are sprinkled very inviting gastronomical emporiums, and among souvenir shops there are many that sell attractive and inventive crafts.

Side streets are much quieter, projecting quite surprising tranquility. The buildings around them maintain fine quality.

Collegiata ♥, the local duomo, contains many frescoes (which somehow manage to present various biblical scenes as invariably killings or fights). A few interesting frescoes can also be found at Museo Civico ♥ which occupies several rooms at the Palazzo del Popolo, especially in its spacious Sala di Dante. The most important function of the museum is the gateway to Torre Grossa ♥♥♥, the tallest of the remaining 13 towers. It is comparatively easy to climb – modern stairs are fitted inside the hollow tower for most of the way – and it provides unparalleled views over the town, its towers, and the Tuscan countryside.

Another great perspective is from Rocca ♥♥, the ruins of the castle. Climb up to a tower lookout for a stunning view of San Gimignano’s skyline.

Take in the view, linger on the steps of the duomo for a while, walk around the town and look into the shops. At some point, go down Via San Matteo away from Piazza del Duomo, and after a couple of hundred meters turn around and look back. Your heart may skip a bit if you are a New Yorker at the sight of the two of the town towers that unmistakably resemble the World Trade Center twins…

There are a couple of other minor attractions, including two separate museums of torture, which can be safely skipped.

Car parking

There are a couple of lots outside city walls, each of which will require about 10 minutes walk to the town center. I prefer Park #1, located near Porta San Giovanni, but it is the first one to fill up on a busy day.

Places to Eat

Our stops in San Gimignano normally include only light meals at pizzerias and cafés on Piazza della Cisterna; all adequate, no more. In 2003, we stayed in town through the evening and had dinner at Le Terrazze, in Albergo la Cisterna. I have a faint memory of a nice view over the valley below and a pretty good rabbit dish, but no specific records were taken at the time to confirm my recollections.
 

Pisa

In 7 words: Breathtaking main square with the famous tower. For your visit you need a few hours if you decide to only explore Piazza dei Miracoli. Extra time may be needed if you tour other attractions. Worthy attractions: Piazza dei Miracoli complex, including the Leaning Tower and Duomo. Left for another visit: Museo Nazionale di San Matteo; Santa Maria della Spina. Last visit: August 2008.

On all our trips to Pisa, we limited ourselves to the magnificent Piazza dei Miracoli ♥♥♥ (also known as Campo dei Miracoli or Piazza del Duomo). But even that one piazza more than justifies a trip to the city.

The piazza is, of course, the setting of the iconic Torre Pendente ♥♥♥. Hordes of tourists photographing themselves in “propping-up-the-tower” poses notwithstanding, it is an amazing sight, both close up and from the distance, when the tower appears to be peeking out from behind the duomo.

Small groups of people at half-hour intervals are allowed to climb to the top. For those expecting a sideways climbing adventure, you may be disappointed: The steps run largely inside the tower and the tilt is entirely non-discernible. The view from the top is great in respect to the piazza below; the rest of the city is not really inspiring when viewed from above. Advance ticket purchase is pretty much the only way to get in during peak season. Note: Children under 8 are not allowed to climb.

The tower stands next to the Duomo ♥♥, with its wonderful four-tiered façade with creamy colonnades and blind arcades. The duomo is uncharacteristically bright inside due to large windows on its upper levels. On our visit in 2003, we were not allowed to wander around, but instead observed the interior from a roped-off area near the entrance (we did not go in on our more recent trips).

The other major building on the green field is the baptistery ♥, which is both imposing and graceful. The look at the interior is worth the entry fee for those who enjoy Gothic and Romanesque lines.

The fourth element of Piazza dei Miracoli is the Camposanto (cemetery), which we never visited.

The city has a couple of museums and interesting churches to offer in addition to the piazza, and I can hazard a guess that they are never crowded, but I do not know anyone who budgets time for those.

Car parking

It is possible to find paid parking on the streets not very far from the piazza even in the peak season. I prefer to park at one of the big lots across Via Carlo Salomone Cammeo from the piazza, between Via Andrea Pisano and Via Vecchia Barbaricina.

Places to Eat

Singularly the worst culinary experience in Tuscany can be obtained by having a meal at one of the cafés on the pedestrian alley leading to the right from piazza’s Porta Santa Maria. The food is of the frozen/re-heated variety, raising clear concerns about its freshness. We only tried one such place, but their appearance suggests that they are all similar.
 

Volterra

Volterra is San Gimignano without towers, but with rich Roman and Etruscan history. Its medieval core is preserved quite well, and there are several attractions that may be worth checking out, most of them within a stone’s throw of the central Piazza dei Priori.

We stopped only by Museo Etrusco Guarnacci, which is slightly off from center on Via Don Minzoni. It holds an interesting collection of Etruscan pieces bequeathed to town by a local ruler in 18th century. Nearby Parco Archeologico is a pleasant space with a few other ancient artifacts, such as stone bathtubs, on open-air display.

The magnificent Roman Amphitheatre ♥ can be viewed from a high vantage point from within the city walls or toured (we chose the former).

Places to Eat

We had a pretty good lunch at Ombra della Sera ♥ on Via Gramsci. Nothing spectacular, but a very well-prepared Tuscan cuisine. Fairly extensive menu and friendly service. Our damage: €65 for four people, including wine. Last visit: Summer 2008.
 

Certaldo

Certaldo is an otherwise unremarkable large village in the heart of Tuscany, a bit off the beaten path. Its medieval upper town, though, is well worth a visit.

Located on a towering hill, the old village is most easily reached via Il Funiculore. The area to explore is very small, with the main street not longer than a few hundred yards and the side streets not extending for more than a hundred yards in any direction. The buildings lining the streets are very well preserved, and with reasonably few tourists around, you may feel truly transported into Middle Ages.

There are a couple of old churches and museums. We only visited Palazzo Pretorio, the seat of the Vicars, Florentine governors. It is an interesting building, richly decorated with terracotta coats of arms and containing many frescoes in various stages of decay. There is no furniture or decorations otherwise, but instead a somewhat incongruous modern painting exhibition that nevertheless provides a curious contrast to ancient wall art.
 

Monteriggioni

Monteriggioni is another walled-up hill town, even smaller in size than historic Certaldo. Although some guidebooks recommend it as a top attraction, I can only see it as a brief drive-by stop when around Siena. The town walls can be ascended in two places, but the surrounding vistas are only marginally impressive. The only square is charming with a tiny Romanesque-Gothic church.
 

Chianti Road

The road, also known as S222, connects Florence with Siena and goes through the heart of the Chianti Classico region. Dozens of wineries lie on or within short distance of the road, making this a natural prime wine-tasting thoroughfare.

In 2003, we had an excellent experience on a wine-tasting tour at Castello di Verrazzano ♥♥, the erstwhile birthplace of the New York Harbour pioneer. Presented with an option of staying for lunch in addition to the tour, we took it. The lunch featured local meats, lively conversation with the owners and the staff, and vin santo and grappa in addition to half a dozen vintages of wine to taste. Great experience!

Although we drove the length of the Chianti Road in 2003, we did not stop anywhere else.
 

Greve-in-Chianti

Greve is one of the main towns on the Chianti Road, but we only made an effort to explore it separately on a Tuscan holiday, on which we otherwise did not venture into the Chianti Classico country.

Even then, we only looked around the central Piazza Matteotti, whose overall attractiveness is somewhat negated by the car park taking up most of its space.

Places to Eat

There are a dozen restaurants located around Piazza Matteotti, around its irregularly-shaped porticos and above on flower-decked terraces. We chose Il Portico ♥. Excellent crostini and cold cuts for the first course; good Tuscan beef stew, vitello con funghi and spaghetti alla ragu del coniglio for the main dishes. Our damage: €89 for four people, including house wine. Last visit: Summer 2008.
 

Barberino Val d’Elsa

A pretty town off the beaten path on the edge of the Chianti country, Barberino offers its own small fortified hilltop core with well-preserved buildings and a notable Palazzo Pretorio. We came to Barberino on a late-afternoon undemanding visit and were pleasantly surprised with what we saw.

Places to Eat

A forced selection, Il Campanellino ♥ on Via Veneto. Less extensive menu than at the next restaurant, which was full, but still a pretty good meal. Meat lasagna was especially well-received and sampled by all in attendance, in addition to crostini, bruschetta, minestrone toscana, ravioli del formaggio e spinaci and spaghetti al ragu del coniglio. Damage: €88 for five people (three children). Last visit: Summer 2008.
 

Montespertoli

Montespertoli does not have anything to attract a tourist. What it does have is quite possibly an unbeatable location for reaching Tuscan destinations. Florence is a half-hour away, and none of the other major sights in Tuscany is more than an hour away from Montespertoli in different directions; only Arezzo and Cortona are a bit too far for an easy day-trip – but they would be farthest away from anywhere.

Lodging

Agriturismo Le Pianore ♥♥♥ (link) combines the location that is convenient for many sightseeing forays with the setting and amenities that will tempt you never to leave its gates (except, of course, for a trip to the supermarket once in a while). We stayed there twice now, last in August 2008.

The main guesthouse, located about five kilometers out of Montespertoli proper along Via Lucardese, has six apartments that share tennis courts, a pool and a playground. From the little we know, the apartments are adequate. The real gems are the two semi-attached villas a few hundred yards over the hill.

The villas may not be the most authentic, being part of a gated development which is probably not older than 20-30 years. But the view across the valley, over villages, vineyards and castelli is nothing short of breathtaking.

We stayed in both villas. Maggiole 1 has a big living room with a fireplace, a good-size kitchen with eating space, two bedrooms on the main floor and a bedroom on the upper floor (which is really an attic). There are two bathrooms, one on each floor; the lower one with a tub, the upper – a shower. Italians are much advanced in bridging hygiene and convenience – each bathroom has a bidet.

Maggiole 2 is bigger, with a large dining table set in the living room. Kitchen, with eating space, is comparable to that of its neighbor. There are two double bedrooms and one bedroom with two single beds on the ground floor and a double bedroom upstairs. Three full bathrooms in total, a bidet in each.

The recently upgraded satellite TV has few English and American channels, but the overall channel selection from all over the world is amazing.

Maggiole 2 can comfortably sleep 8 people, while the smaller villa is likely able to sleep 6.

Each of the two villas has its own gazebo, and they share a large in-ground pool. The vineyards start right next to the pool. The owners produce their own wine, which they will be very happy to supply for a very nominal price.

There are several fantastic restaurants in nearby villages (see below), but having breakfasts – and occasional lunch – in the gazebo is highly recommended.

Places to Eat

These restaurants were all recommended to us by the owners of Le Pianore (see above). All turned out to be superb, as each of these places does an excellent job in serving typical Tuscan cuisine.

C’era una volta ♥♥♥ (which translates as Once upon a time) is positioned on a main – and practically only – street of the tiny village of Lucardo to the south of Montespertoli (local highway 79). The setting is that of a rustic family-run eatery, with sweeping views over the valley below. The menu includes every Tuscan staple and the house wine goes down easy. Very prompt and pleasant service. We have been to the place 4 times overall and always come away satisfied. Our favorites are crostini misti, tagliatelli a funghi porcini, coniglio and osso bucco. Freshly prepared tiramisu is exceptional. The damage: between €90-110 for a meal for four, often decided by the quantity of wine ordered. Last visit: Summer 2008.

Trattoria Montalbino ♥♥ specializes in mushrooms and truffles, but serves enough of dishes that do not include either. It is part of an inn that is located in a hamlet of Montalbino, the only road through which is a tributary to highway 79. The dining room is quite plain, but the food and the service are extremely good. The wine is local, but slightly more expensive. Our damage: €90 for a meal of four, including one bottle of wine. Last visit: Spring 2007.

La Nuova Villamagna ♥♥ is located literally in the middle of nowhere, off the road towards San Donato north of Montespertoli. The road is challenging in itself, and then the turnoff is marked by an arrow sign that is easy to miss in the darkness. The setting is considerably more modern: A large dining room with wall-length windows. The menu is less extensive than at the other places; wine choice is minimal – rosso della casa or bianco della casa. But the quality of the food is very good, and it is literally half as expensive as the others (everyone in the party can have primo, secondo, dolce, plus a half of a bottle of wine, and the cost will be under €20 per person). Service a bit spotty. Cash only. Last visit: Spring 2007.

Il Battibecco ♥♥, unlike the other restaurants mentioned above, is located within Montespertoli village itself, on Via Enrico Berlinguer. We went there for a mid-day meal, which consisted more of primi than secondi. Very extensive menu, with lots of regional choices. The most exceptional was coniglio, but other selections went quite well. One person in our party spoke fairly respectable Italian, and the restaurant owner spent several minutes patiently explaining specifics of Tuscan cuisine to us. Of all panna cotta that we tried for dessert, the one at Il Battibecco was arguably the best. Our damage: €117 for a party of seven (four adults, three children), including house wine. Last visit: Summer 2008.

Destination appeal

Our verdict

Florence is, without a doubt, a must-see city in one’s lifetime. It would be even more visually arresting if her grand public places were graced by grand fountains, according to my aesthetic preferences. On our visits in previous years, the city also suffered from the glut of street vendors selling useless trinkets and cheap prints, as well as leather knock-offs at basement-bottom prices, – their presence greatly distorted the ambience of the magnificent city. However, on our very latest trip to Florence, we found it almost entirely free of this annoying phenomenon.

Things to See

The Old City is very compact and walkable, the Renaissance palaces are astounding, and there are plenty of sights to awe any visitor.

The main town square, Piazza della Signoria ♥♥♥, is where many walking routes invariably lead to. It is of irregular shape and is, in fact, graced by a famous fountain, that of Neptune. The imposing Palazzo Vecchio, the town hall, dominates the square and is reputedly well worth a visit.

There are many statues on the square, including a marvelous covered gallery, Loggia dei Lanzi ♥♥. Among statues that are housed there are works of Cellini and Giambologna, as well as antique Roman sculptures.

Looking to the Loggia from its place by the side of the Palazzo Vecchio is the copy of Michelangelo’s David. If you are not planning to visit the museum where the original has resided for the last 130 years, this is the best imitation available. The original, though, is so tremendous when viewed up close, that you might want to fit a visit to the Galleria dell’Accademia ♥ into your schedule, even though it is a bit away from the city center and may greet you with long wait lines at busy times. There are other artworks at this comparatively small museum, but most of the people – yours truly not an exception – have only one exhibit in mind when they visit.

We explored Uffizi ♥♥♥ in a much greater detail on our very first visit to Florence. Uffizi is truly one of the grandest collections of paintings in the entire world, boasting works by practically every significant artist from 13th through 17th centuries. Botticelli’s Birth of Venus is one of undeniable highlights, but any appreciative person will find dozens of masterpieces to be drawn to.

Ponte Vecchio ♥♥♥ is an amazing sight, but it is always very crowded. I personally find that being on it is not as sensory stimulating as looking at it from Lungarno degli Acciaioli or Lungarno Torrigiani (you also get the best view of the Uffizi façade from the latter), unless you happen to walk onto it without realizing that you are crossing the river, which makes for a startling realization when you reach its open middle part.

The Cathedral complex is phenomenal. The Duomo ♥♥♥, Santa Maria del Fiore, reputedly the third largest in the entire Christendom, is one of the most exquisite, capped by its famous Brunelleschi dome. It is awesome to behold from any vantage point. The Duomo’s façade, executed centuries after the original one was destroyed, is simply splendid. The interior of the cathedral deserves fewer superlatives than the exterior, but lingering directly underneath the dome is definitely worth coming in.

Next to the Duomo stands no less exquisite Giotto Campanile ♥♥♥, clad in the same three colours of marble gracing the cathedral. Just as the Duomo, it provides a capital viewpoint from its top, with vistas over the city and beyond. Both lookout galleries are reached by about 400 steps, but from the dome of the cathedral you are looking onto the bell tower, whereas from the tower, you get the singularly best perspective of the dome. If you have strength for only one, I definitely recommend the latter.

The ensemble is completed by Baptistery ♥, believed to be the oldest building in Florence, with its three sets of bronze doors, depicting various biblical scenes. The most popular east doors, colloquially known as Gates of Paradise, are gilded replicas installed only twenty years ago, so that original set can be moved to the nearby Museo dell’Opera del Duomo for preservation. The museum holds a number of artifacts related to the Cathedral complex, but we never found inclination to look in.

Several other large squares are worth strolling around, foremost of them Piazza della Repubblica ♥ and Piazza Santa Croce ♥♥. The latter not only is surrounded by well-preserved mansions, but is also fronted by the Basilica di Santa Croce ♥♥, an incomparable example of Italian Gothic architecture. Beholding this church is a treat of its own; the vast interior is of much interest as well, being the final resting place of many famous Florentines – Michelangelo, Galileo, Macchiavelli, just to name a few.

Tempio Maggiore (the Great Synagogue of Florence) ♥♥ is located a bit further away from center. Built in 19th century as more a monument than a praying house, it combines several architectural styles (Moorish, Ottoman, Christian) in its magnificent – and unique as far as synagogues go – great hall. There is also a Jewish history museum on the premises. Note: Access to the synagogue is limited; make sure to inquire whether you will be able to enter the great hall; the museum by itself is not worth coming over for most of the people. Also: You will be required to leave literally everything but the clothes on your back in a provided locker before entering; there is a very advanced metal detector acting as an entrance.

Palazzo Pitti ♥ is located up the street from Ponte Vecchio across the river from the Old City. It houses several museums, which do not rise to the level of exceptional. The Royal Apartments are lavishly decorated, but are not as impressive as apartments in any number of palaces around Europe. The apartments are reached through the Palatine Gallery, whose twenty rooms could contend with many top painting galleries in the world; there are works by Raphael, Titian, Rubens and many other Renaissance masters. Among the furniture found throughout the gallery and the apartments are a series of resplendent inlaid tables. The Silver Museum and the Costume Gallery are mildly curious, and there are also Gallery of Modern Arts and a Porcelain Museum that we did not visit.

Boboli Gardens ♥, which can be reached through the Palazzo, is a good example of Italian garden, with a number of picturesque spots and good views over the city. Again, we have seen many great parks and gardens around Europe and thought that Boboli was nice, not spectacular.

Piazzale Michelangelo ♥♥♥ (or Michelangiolo, depending on the source) sits high atop the hill south of the Old City on the “other” side of the river Arno. The promenade at the piazza’s edge overlooks one of the most famous and magnificent city views in the world. The skyline is nothing short of breathtaking.

Amongst attractions that we will surely visit in the future are Bargello and Basilica di Santa Maria Novella, as well as a number of others.

Car Parking

If you are driving into Florence, parking will be an issue. The center of the Old City is largely pedestrian, and street parking is impossible to find. Parking garages are practically non-existent within the central area, so the best bet is to use a garage slightly to the fringes, where the spaces are more likely to be found. Sant’Ambrogio, at the eponymous mercato is a bit too far from the center, unless you plan your day to finish somewhere in the vicinity of Santa-Croce, which it is about 7-10 minutes away. Stazione Centrale is about 10-15 minutes from Duomo. Mercato Centrale is one of the closest large garages to the center, only about 5-7 minutes from the Duomo, and quite convenient for attractions such as Galleria dell’Accademia or San Lorenzo.

If your target is Oltrarno/Palazzo Pitti, then your task in finding nearby parking may even be worse. I ended up leaving my car in garage Ponte Vecchio, practically by the bridge on Lungarno Torrigiani. It was very convenient – but incredibly expensive; €7/hr for a compact car, €11/hr for an SUV.

Places to Eat

On Piazza Mercato Centrale, we lunched at Trattoria Za-Za ♥. Large menu, adequate service, very nice food. We were a group of 11 people, with some hungry kids among us, and we ordered a large selection of antipasti, primi and secondi. Not one dish elicited complaints, and several were received very enthusiastically. Overall damage was very reasonable: €220, including house wine. Last visit: Summer 2008.

We once picked a random place that we were walking by, on the corner of Via Porta Rossa and Via Pellicceria, a block away from Piazza della Repubblica. It is called La Grotta Guelfa ♥♥, and it served the best mushroom soup that Natasha has eaten in a week (and she tried a few). The rest of the food was first-rate as well. We sat outside and were beneficiaries of very prompt service (no less than four different people attended to our needs at different times). The ambience of nearby palaces added to the appreciation of the meal, and while tourist masses flow around the piazza, they do not really walk close enough to be annoying. Our damage: €75 for a meal for four, including a bottle of wine. Last visit: Spring 2007.

On our stay in Florence in September of 2003, we recorded the names of two restaurants that we dined at. Ristorante BIBO is on Piazza S. Felicita, a step away from Ponte Vecchio on the Oltrarno side. Ristorante Il Cavallino is on Via delle Farine, which is literally part of Piazza della Signoria. We did not write down any details of these meals, which, according to our approach at the time, means that they were not bad, but not extraordinary either.

There is a gelateria on every corner in Florence, but one of them is considered to be especially famous: Perche No, located a couple of blocks from Piazza dei Signoria. There is a wider range of offerings than in a run-of-the-mill gelateria, but we can’t say that the quality was superior to what we tried in other places; that’s not a knock down on this establishment, but rather a comment on the overall high quality of Florentine ice cream. For instance, we have had gelato twice in as many years in a gelateria by the side of Santa-Croce and came away perfectly satisfied on both occasions. The only exception in our experience has been a random gelateria near Ponte Vecchio on the Oltrarno side, which yielded less than favorable reviews on another occasion. Your mileage will vary.

Lodging

On our only stay in Florence proper, in September of 2003, we rented a room at a B&B on Via delle Porte Nuove, which is at least 15 minutes of brisk pace from the historic city core. Late at night, it was not the most pleasant of walks returning to our rooms. The room on the top floor of a six-story building was quite spacious, furnished with old – if not exactly antique – pieces, and with a balcony. It opened on the noisy street. Breakfast was limited, but acceptable. The building had an underground garage, for an extra cost. I recall that we paid for our stay in cash, and the name of the B&B was not recorded anywhere, but I suppose that we wouldn’t be looking for a return.

Destination appeal

Our verdict

Milan never excited us as a potential destination, but on our big journey through Italy in 2003, we still budgeted two nights in the city. Along the way, however, we changed our plans in favor of spending the single full day meant for Milan on a day-trip to Geneva to visit with friends instead. The corollary to that decision was that we left only a single afternoon for Milan exploration.

Things to See

We spent most of our time walking around the city center. Milan is a modern metropolis, with not much in the way of architectural attractions. High-end shopping may act as a welcome substitute for some, but we normally are no more than lightly amused by boutique windows.

Theatro all Scala‘s exterior was being renovated, and we could see very little beyond scaffolding. Galleria Vittorio Emmanuele II ♥ is an attractive shops-and-restaurants arcade, with a certain impressive quality of design, especially in its glass ceiling and dome.

One sight in town was on our must-see list: Duomo ♥♥♥, one of the main claimants of the title of the grandest Gothic churches in the world. Unfortunately, scaffolding obscured our view of this magnificent cathedral as well, but we nonetheless got to admire its majestic interior and stained-glass windows. The highlight of the Duomo visit is undeniably its extraordinary roof, with 135 spires and uncounted statues and gargoyles. Being able to walk on the roof is a fairly unique experience in itself, and the views over the city are not half-bad either.

We had neither time nor inclination to visit several of Milan’s museums and galleries, among them a reputedly fine art collection at Pinacoteca di Brera and Leonardo’s Last Supper at a convent some distance from the city center (you can’t just show up there and expect to see it anyway – advance booking is mandatory). If our travels ever take us to Milan again, we’ll keep them in mind.

Places to Eat

Milan did distinguish itself with a strong contender for the best restaurant meal on our two-weeks-plus Italian trip in 2003. Trattoria Da Giovanni ♥♥, on Via Gustavo Farra, not far from the main train station, was recommended to us by the hotel concierge. We did not record the particulars of our meal, but fondly recall the local community atmosphere and very friendly service. The food must have been great as well. Our damage: €70 for two people, surely with at least a half-bottle of wine. Last visit: September 2003.

Lodging

The hotel that we stayed in September 2003 at in Milan was, conversely, the least pleasant of all of our accommodations on that Italian trip. Hotel Garda (link), situated on one of the streets that converge at the Stazione Centrale, left memories of a very small room and amenities in sore need of updating (we also made note that it was the only room on our Italian trip that did not have a bidet in the bathroom). For all we know, the hotel may have renovated since then.

You may be able to catch a glimpse of Emilia-Romagna on your way from Florence to Venice, but you are unlikely to actually stop here, as those other major destinations beckon. We did make it a point to take a brief look at Bologna and were pleased enough to consider coming back for a more focused exploration. If only Florence and Venice did not exert their pull…     

Destination appeal

Our verdict

Bologna

In 7 words: Positive impression on a three-hour visit. For your visit a day should be enough to get acquainted with the city and its major sights. Bologna is widely considered the culinary capital of Italy, so staying in town for dinner may be advisable. Distances are short and walkable. Love its portico-ed central streets that create almost uninterrupted covered walkways in all directions.
Worthy attractions: San Petronio. Left for another visit: Torri degli Asinelli e Garisenda [did not climb]; Abbazia di Santo Stefano; Pinacoteca Nazionale. Last visit: September 2003.

We only spent a short period of time in Bologna and got acquainted with only a couple of its main sights. Most notable of all is the cathedral of San Petronio ♥, a grand medieval building that was meant to be larger than St Peter’s in Rome, but ended up incomplete and lopsided when the funds meant for its construction were diverted by the church authorities. The interior, nonetheless, is bright and airy.

Near the cathedral, the “indecent” Fontana di Nettuno ♥ is resplendent with its bronze figures by Giambologna.

Among the other attractions in the city, are two leaning towers (neither as famous as the one in Pisa), an abbey and a good collection of paintings. All were left for another visit.

It was raining when we were in Bologna, but most of the buildings in town center seem to have porticoes and covered colonnades that extend for entire blocks. There are also many arched walkways through back streets. Not only was that very fortunate for us, but the atmosphere is very stately and refined because of that.

Car parking

No details remain in our records, except the note that we spent an inordinate amount of time looking for a garage with spaces. It feels as if Bologna was the most problematic of all places that we’ve travelled to in terms of parking. That could have changed since 2003.

Destination appeal

Our verdict

Umbria has a lot to offer, starting with a number of dramatically positioned hill towns and including the famous town of Assisi. Unfortunately, Umbria is always overshadowed by its neighbor, Tuscany, and we, like many others, are guilty of overlooking this picturesque region. In fact, we only drove through Umbria a couple of times on the way to and from Rome, and only stopped once for an hour or so in Orvieto. I’m hoping we’ll find opportunities for more exploration in the future.

Orvieto

This magnificent town looks down on great vistas of vineyard-dotted plains. There are several interesting churches and little museums, as well as an Etruscan necropolis and a fairly unique attraction in the form of the vast well, Pozzo di San Patrizio. We did not have time to include touring any of these into our brief stop in Orvieto.

Aside from a brief stroll around medieval town center and a few moments of contemplation from high lookouts, we only toured the Duomo ♥♥, one of the greatest Romanesque-Gothic cathedrals in all of Italy. In our opinion, just that alone justified our spur-of-the-moment decision to turn off at Orvieto for a quick look.

Destination appeal

Our verdict

 

We only spent two days in Campania, with targeted stops in Pompeii and on Amalfi Coast. The capital of the region and one of the major Italian destinations Napoli (Naples) was left for future visits, as were a couple of other famous points of interest.

Pompeii

The eruption of Mount Vesuvius in AD 79 may have consigned the city of Pompeii and many of its residents to a horrible fate, but it preserved the city under several layers of pumice and ash through the centuries. Although essentially still ruins, many of Pompeian buildings kept their roofs, in some of them paintings, sculpture and graffiti survived, and you can mostly see – as opposed to having to imagine – what life in a Roman city must have been like.

The site ♥♥♥ takes a couple of hours of touring with an excellent audio-guide, which offers an engrossing narration about the history of the city and of its residents, in addition to describing the buildings and artifacts. There are a number of main locations of interest, among them partly reconstructed House of the Vettii, with surviving frescoes, a well-preserved Teatro Grande, and a famous, although considerably more ruined, House of the Faun. We especially liked the baths and the bordello, which are structurally intact and, therefore, notably fascinating to step into.

Amalfi Coast

The singular beauty of the southern flank of Sorrento Peninsula provides a gorgeous backdrop to pursuits of leisure. The wining and dining is excellent, the views are breathtaking, the drives along the sole coastal highway are exhilarating, and the beaches, while crowded in-season, are nonetheless fantastic.

We spent two nights on the coast, with beach-going and sightseeing jammed into a single full day that we had. We left completely enchanted and wishing for a chance to come back. It will happen one day!

Towns and Villages to Visit

Moving along the coast requires quite some time and patience. Being somewhat constrained on time, we did not venture to either the well-developed Sorrento or the fashionable Positano, the two most well-known spots on the coast.

Instead, we stayed in the area near Amalfi ♥, the coast’s largest town and tremendously popular capital. Its lovely cathedral ♥ is worth checking out, dating from the 10th century and containing elements of Moorish heritage. A small museum of religious items inside the cathedral is quite interesting.

The village of Ravello ♥♥, up in the mountains above the shoreline, has the best views on the coast, which can be taken in from the grounds of two historic retreats, Villa Rufolo and Villa Cimbrone ♥. We only visited the latter. Both are now upscale hotels, but their gardens and terraces are open to public.

Other nearby villages, such as Atrani, Minori, Maiori, etc, are pleasant to drive through, or to stop at for a swim or a meal (or both).

Lodging

We stayed for two nights in September of 2003 at Free Holiday B&B ♥♥♥ (link) in Minori. Our room was Zagara, the best of the three available rooms and the only one with a private bathroom (although not en-suite). The room is reasonably spacious, with a king-size bed, and opens onto the private terrace, with great views over the village and the sea below, as well as of the surrounding mountains. The winsomeness of the setting was rivaled only by the friendliness of the hosts, who greeted us as if we were long-lost relatives, even though barely several dozen words of common language were spoken between us.

Free Holiday offers a fantastic breakfast, with cheeses, jams, hot patties, pastries, etc. You can have a dinner at the B&B as well, if you ask the hosts in the morning of that day. The meal will likely be cheaper than what you’d spend at a nearby restaurant, and the home-made dishes will all be delicious. Be prepared to be offered several courses, each one better than the other. You might struggle between not being able to finish some of the food on account of being already full and not wanting to insult your hosts by leaving some food on the plate. Just saying.

Our meal culminated in a limoncello “tasting” – or, rather, we were offered a choice of several varieties of the liquor for an after-meal drink.

This was by far our best accommodations on our two-weeks-long tour of Italy that year, and we’ll be happily considering coming back in the future.

Place to Eat

Our hosts at B&B recommended Ristorante L’Arsenale ♥♥ in Minori. A great setting, excellent local seafood, friendly service. Especially when we mentioned that we were sent by the proprietor of Free Holiday. Either the chef or the maitre-d’ – my Italian was too limited to understand which – knew him quite well (although, I got the feeling that in a place like Minori everyone knows everyone quite well), and we were presented with a bottle of limoncello to take with us, gratis, at the conclusion of the meal.